Mexico City - July 5 - 8

Mexico City (D.F.) is a happening, energized, and, most importantly, self-aware metropolis. The buildings in the Centro Historico are all awkwardly slanting and leaning, appearing that one day soon they’ll all topple over like a chain of dominoes. Andre Breton must be haunting this place since he visited D. Rivera, F. Khalo, and L. Trotsky in the early 20th century, for walking in this city feels like a visit to a funhouse. I call it the “Surrealist Epicenter” because of this fact and, mostly, because it lies in a seismic zone where earthquakes (not to mention that the city was built on a soft lake bed and is sinking) contributed to its present, cubist appearance. But this place is not square at all. It is too hip to be square. It is multifaceted: hipsters, punks, goths, mariachis, cowboys, nuns, business men, Maria-homemakers, beggars, swindlers, poets, artists, etc. all claim D.F. as home. And just like a well-cut stone, D.F. shines brightly.

The highlights: the art deco Palacio de Bellas Artes, the former Casa de Moneda, the Zocalo, the National Palace, and the Lucha Libre insanity. I need to return, for I hardly scratched the surface in three days.

Notes on the Lucha Libre match: Got ringside seats with a few friends I met at the hostel. This high-flying acrobatic soap opera is so fake, so fixed, and so fun. The crowd incessantly screamed vulgarities to each other and to the wrestlers and threw cups of beer to the stage. There were a lot of children in the audience too. This was nothing short of an orderly riot (if that makes sense), a vane vulgarity with makeup, muscles, and masks. A must-see, at most (least) once.

San Miguel de Allende - July 3 - 5

I find myself resisting SMdA for some reason. The city is small and clam, and the church is beautiful. But this place is retirement heaven for the ex-pat well-to-do. In demonstration of its popularity, this small town even has its own US embassy. Most of the expats, and their visiting families, are easy to spot: almost all are wearing panama hats and carry their designer dogs around town. It is also a bit disgusting to see when one does not even try to speak Spanish, assuming, and perhaps rightly so, that they can get by with English alone. I assume that the ex-pats come here to retire to seek an ‘authentic’ Mexican life, but they are completely clueless to the painful truth that even their plastic-surgery-laden and conspicuously consumption-driven American life is anything but “authentic.” Deception, doubly and deeply so. Retiring in a small town in Mexico will not change anything.

Perhaps I am being too critical. But perhaps not. I asked a cab driver about a general Mexican sentiment regarding the foreign “invasion” in their city. He expressed a tension: the foreigners bring jobs for the locals... along with high prices. Prices were notably higher here than in GDL, ZAC, and GTO, but (I’m guessing) so too are the wages. Nonetheless, perception, whether true or false, plays no insignificant role in reality. It must not be dismissed so easily.

Day 8 - Guanajuato - July 1

After dropping my laundry off at the lavendaria, I caught a bust to visit the mines. The main mouth to the Valenciana was closed because it was flooded, but I went deep into Bocamina San Ramon and Bocamina San Cayetano near the Valenciana church. The mines in GTO produced, some estimate, around 40% of the world's silver during the colonial period, with 20% coming from the Valenciana network alone. The mines were neat, but not nearly as massive as the one in ZAC. Too bad the Valenciana was closed, as it would be, I'm assuming, larger.

GTO seems to embrace its silver-mining past in a way ZAC can't: considering the manner in which GTO surpassed ZAC as #1 silver producer in the 18 century. You'll find old mining-carts throughout the city, being used as rustic (and rusting) flower beds.

After the mines, I mistakenly thought the Mummy Museum was within walking-distance. It was, but I about passed out. The museum was as fucked as my feet were sore. Grotesque comes to mind. There, in front of you, are mummies frozen at death, contorted to hell. Babies, labia, testicles, and hair mummified: fucked.

I got the hell out of there, and perhaps cheated death again by hitchhiking back into town. I walked to the Diego Rivera house. This Marxist was born in GTO and the house holds an impressive collection of his work. Perhaps more riveting than the revolutionary's work was a hall dedicated to the Japanese artist Eiki Ito. His pencil drawings were the most impressive.

I'm waiting for the rain to stop.

Day 7 - Guanajuato - June 30

I arrived here at around 5 pm, after a 4 hour bus ride from ZAC to Leon, a 1 hour ride from Leon to GTO, and a 30 min ride from the station to the center on a chicken bus. The bus dropped me off in the periphery of the central historical area, but considering the view that opened up to me while entering the city, and the fact that the ride only cost 4 pesos, it was worth it. GTO is, at first glance, an amazing city. It is already giving ZAC a run for its money. And it did, at least in the eighteenth-century when GTO overcame ZAC as the top silver-producing area in Spanish America. Not only was it more abundant in silver than legendary Potosi, but it was richer than the entire viceroyalty of Peru.

This is a medieval city par excellence. Road directions have no rhyme or reason, and the buildings are packed together. The weather is beautiful here too, being allmost as beautiful as ZAC. GTO has welcomed me nicely.

There are a lot of students here, many international ones studying Spanish. Lots of european club music echoing down the streets, which nicely contrasts the colonial feel.

I visited the Casa de Moneda today and wandered about. Tomorrow I will visit the mines.

Day 5 & 6 - Zacatecas - June 28 & 29

Today I went to the Casa de Moneda, which was, to my disappointment, under renovation and inaccessible. After drying my tears, I stumbled upon an abstract art museum of Manuel Felguerez. Abstract art is not necessarily my favorite, so it was experienced with feigned interest.

I eventually made it to the statue of the Zacatecas miners. It is a nice, respectful, and simply tribute to the workers. Apart from that, it doesn’t address any other issue. No pejorative language to Spain or the gachupines. Nothing. After that, I learned that the archives were also closed. But now I know exactly where they are in ZAC.

I was able to take a lot of footage today on the camera. I am slowly getting over my photographic shyness, partly because I feel very safe here. I took a lot of footage of a concert, a large market, a wedding, street performers, etc. But my activity was limited due to the rain.

I’m somewhat disappointed that the Casa de Moneda was closed.
Similarly, considering the importance of ZAC during the colonial period - because of its silver production - I’m disappointed with the way in which the city deals with its history. Perhaps my expectations were high. But, let me explore more in order to make a better assessment.

It is oft said that ZAC has an “old world” or “colonial” feel. Unfortunately, it cannot escape the touch of globalization. Best Western Hotels and Starbucks abound. That’s the nature of the beast I suppose.

On my way to the small Museo de la Toma de Zacatecas, which commemorates a battle on the hill, I saw a street vendor kiss his money while doing the Catholic “sign of the cross” with his right hand. Curious to see it again, I bought a 10 peso bag of cookies. Sure enough, the man repeated the gesture and said “gracias a dios por el dinero.”

There is a small collection of banknotes and coins at the museo atop el Cerro de la Bufa.

It seems, at first glance, that Zacatecanos have a janus-like relationship with their silver-mining history. There are, to draw a metaphor, two sides to this coin. One face looks to the future by exploiting an insignificant amount of its silver production history for economic prosperity (silver jewelry fairs, mine tours, etc). The other face looks to the past, but perhaps with its eyes cast down in historical defiance or ambivalence (there is not much else regarding this part of its history except for silver jewelry fairs, mine tours, and a few statues. In other words, I was shocked to see that there is not much more here than this). Perhaps with the renovation of the Casa de Moneda, a new era in the way ZAC treats its history will develop. But we will leave that for posterity to judge.

I cant hold steadfast to my observations, as I have only been here for 4 days. But considering how much this town prospered with its silver mines (which, according to Spanish law, all silver had to be minted into coinage) in the 250-or-so years prior to the struggle for Mexican independence, it is curious to see only a handful of minor (pun: miner) references to this period like the statue, the various colonial buildings, a mine tour, etc.

It is clear this place prospered in history, as it is beautiful. And it is clear it is prospering now. But I wish this history was embraced a bit more.

Tomorrow, Guanajuato.

Day 4 - Zacateacs - June 27

We had fun the night before, but we didn’t get intoxicated to the point of next-day-worthlessness. In fact, we woke up early and ventured through the town some more. We walked past a group of filmmakers from Mexico City working on a commercial about H20 safety or something. They, perceiving that we were tourists, asked us to participate. After singing wavers, they mic'ed us and asked us to say “turistas.” So we did, and it was awkward as hell.

After that hot mess, we hiked up the Western hill to catch a 7-minute teleferico ride across the entire city to “el cerro de la bufa.” The view was stunning, as you can imagine. Check out the video I posted on YouTube:


We decided to walk down the side of the hill instead of taking the teleferico back. We eventually made our way to a mine called “la mina el Eden” (unfortunately it is now Disney-like in nature). Despite its “tourist trap” nature, and the social-life-killing yellow hardhats we had to wear, it was pretty intense to walk in this man-made, multistoried cavern.

Many images from the inside didnt take well due to the low levels of light. The tour was disappointing because it didnt really get into much detail. There was a corney “mineral museum,” but very little devoted to silver/gold... which was a shocking surprise. To be sure, there is an lot of silver jewelry sold in town, at bargain-like prices, but very little history of silver-mining is visible. More on this later.

After the mine, we wandered about some more. We snuck around a swanky former-bull-fighting-ring-turned-into-posh-hotel, but the disapproving scowls from the staff ensured a quick departure.

Later that night, we got invited to listen to a mariachi band at Todos Santos.

I left soon after the Mariachis. We walked around 10 miles today, so a good rest was in order.

Day 3 - Guadalajara to Zacatecas - June 26

I arrive at the Central Camionera to discover that the 7:00 am bus I expected to take had been cancelled. The next one is scheduled to leave at 9:45 am. The ride to ZAC was nice, but long, both due in part to a chatty Mexican friend I made who wanted to practice his English with me. My services were unexpectedly paid for with an ice cream cone from a bus stop.

ZAC welcomed me with a wonderful 66 degree smile and a view to die for. Later, the smile suddenly turned to tears when a 30-min shower passed over the town.

But the pension I am staying at is nice, and I met a delightful Australian couple, Peter and Sally, touring through Mexico. In fact, we were ‘dorm mates.’ They arrived the exact same moment. We got invited to a photography exhibit at a local Cantina called Todos Santos. It being Friday night, we decided to go together and have a few drinks. We were greeted with free food, wine, and beer. We also indulged in a (large) glass of fine tequila.

After the cantina we were feeling quite froggy. So we hopped around town and stumbled upon this fantastically discordant and gaudy cantina decorated in the key of Lucha Libre. Three local Mexicans invited us to share a several-liter cylinder of beer called a “missil.” So we did.

One thing I must mention: not only is ZAC about 2450 meters in altitude - calling for chilly nights -, but its streets are not organized in a modern grid. Alleys branch off the serpentine streets. ZAC being nestled between two “cerros,” these alleyways are, more often than not, ascending or descending. This is nothing more than a long way of saying that the walk back to the pension from the cantina was not only difficult but fun thanks to the alleys, the alcohol, the altitude, and most importantly, the Australians.

Day 2 - Guadalajara - June 25

Today I strolled around the historical center some more. I visited te Cabanas where some more massive Orozco murals are located.

Afterward, I took a bus to a small artisan town called Tlaquepaque. There was a festival happening, which showcased craftts, foods, and events. I ate 5 delicious enchiladas sold on the street for 25 pesos (13 MXP/1 USD). The crafts were all beautiful and expensive, but I hear that they’re more than 50% cheaper in the nearby city Tonola.

Despite how cheap the food is, money is not wasted. While strolling down Chapulpetec Ave. after my Tlaquepaque visit, I noticed that not one of the 6, 25’ diameter fountains had one coin tossed in by well-wishers. Or, unless it is not a custom, maybe the poor pick up the change.

Whatever the reasons, there is no shortage of mouths to feed with that money. And with seemingly every woman (or girl) a child, there may be an issue in the coming years.

Update

So, I was so busy in Mexico that I didn't have enough time to sit in front of the computer to update the blog. I did, however, wrote in my journal. Expect to see the posts listed soon.

In the meantime, please checkout some of the videos I made from my trip. You may find some of them in the column to the right, or by visiting: http://www.youtube.com/jeremybassetti

JB

Day 1 - Guadalajara

I finally arrived in Guadalajara after a long, tiresome day of traveling. Guadalajara is a densely packed metropolis, sprawling for miles in all directions. It is a hip, urban center. One that, in a good way, defies all preconceptions of Mexico. Sure, it is not perfect, but I have yet to find a perfect place. The picture above is the Plaza de Armas in the historical center of Guadalajara. I stumbled upon an Art Nouveau building, the central/underground market with rows upon rows of merchants selling bric-a-brac, loud mariachis, beggars, goths, Orozco murals, politicians, hipsters, you name it. It was a sensory assault, but in the best possible way. I needed a break, so I waited for 1.5 hours and caught a bus back to the hotel (nope, no chickens on this bus).

This is an image of the massive Orozco mural in the central administrative offices of Guadalajara (pictured at the top). The picture does not capture the size of the mural, which spans an entire ceiling and four walls of a grand stairwell. There is a bright red/orange light that illuminates the mural (which is hard to make out here), amplifying the already tense mood. There are swastikas, soldiers, swords, and sangre that didn't make it into this photo. Trust me, it is intense.

Here is a generic picture of the main cathedral. I did not enter it because, well, I just didn't feel like it. Maybe tomorrow I'll drum up the gumption. But maybe not. There is a lot to do, and having been spoiled by having access to the "oldest standing church" in the Americas (in Santo Domingo), this one just starts with a handicap.

So, hoorah! to preconceptions being destroyed, 5 cold bottles of water for one whopping dollar (interesting, considering monetary policy, inflation, and consumer price indices), fresh tacos, and the nice, cool, and (so far) rainless weather.

Mexico

Tomorrow, June 24, I will embark on a two-week trip to Mexico. No, I won’t be going to places where you spent your Spring Break. Neither will you find me at bars named after exotic reptiles chugging Tequila like water. I cannot rule out the possibility of enjoying a few sips of tequila here and there or the delights of Mexican cervezas, but I refuse to participate in the “I’m in another country” party-time pageant. Simply put, the rituals of excessive and/or conspicuous consumption are things I’m not interested in.

I am interested in getting lost like a flâneur, to feel the pulse of a city, and to become part of the heart that drives it. But this trip is not to be confused with mere flanerie as it has a productive purpose directly related to my research: to become acquainted with the major silver-producing regions in Mexico during the colonial period, most notably Zacatecas and Guanajuato. I will spend a total of ten days in these two cities, touring the mines, mints, and museums while getting lost on the old cobblestone streets. Prior to Zacatecas, I have a several-day stop in Guadalajara and Tlaquepaque to adjust. Following Guanajuato, I’ll spend my final two days in Mexico City to tour the historical zone, the numismatic museum, and the mints (both colonial and current, and I have clearance from Mexican officials as proof). I am not expecting any major research-related breakthroughs, but I do hope to become more familiar with the role of silver and gold in (colonial and current) Mexico.

Off I go, with camera in hand, away from the friendly, yet parochial confines of small-town USA. I would love it if I could promise not to post many updates. But the realities of having an already-worried family dictate otherwise. Therefore, expect an occasional post or picture if I can find a few hours of free time and a functional internet cafe (I don’t care what country or continent you’re in, all internet cafes are terrible and unreliable). Anticipate the next communiqué from Jalisco.